The UK’s Most Trusted Soundproofing Provider

To soundproof a wall against noisy neighbours, you need to decouple it, add mass, and increase damping. Decoupling (e.g. building an independent wall with a gap) prevents vibrations from travelling through solid materials. Adding damping components like ReductoClips and FlexiSound helps absorb sound energy, while multiple layers of mass, such as Acoustic Plasterboard and FlexiSound block airborne noise across different frequencies. 

The ReductoClip Independent Wall System combines all these elements, making it the most effective solution for blocking solid, brick party wall noise. 

Acoustic wall panels, or timber slatted panels are used in sound absorption, not soundproofing. They reduce echo inside a room, but do not block sound from entering or leaving a room. SoundBoard 4 is a direct to wall soundproofing panel, especially effective on internal stud walls. ReductoClip Systems are more effective when soundproofing solid brick walls. 

Standard plasterboard adds a limited amount of mass to the wall, so doesn’t stop sound transfer effectively. Without decoupling, damping and adding high levels of mass, sound vibrations still pass through the wall. Proper soundproofing systems include: 

• ReductoClip Isolation clips 

• Acoustic plasterboard 

• FlexiSound and Mass Loaded Vinyl  

Different types of mass also absorb different sound frequencies. Simply adding more of the same material won’t improve the sound blocking capabilities of the wall. 

Installation depends on the system and surface: 

• Walls: Fix ReductoClip soundproofing clips directly to the wall, or independent stud frame. Add acoustic mineral wool insulation. Clip in furring channels to the soundproofing clips, attach a layer of acoustic plasterboard  (leaving a 5mm gap around the perimeter). Add a layer of FlexiSound and a second layer of acoustic plasterboard. Seal the perimeter with acoustic sealant.  

• Floors: Add perimeter edging detail. Carpet gripper rod risers for carpet and perimeter flanking strip for hard floors. Loose lay the SoundMats, tape over the joints, seal around the perimeter with acoustic sealant and install the final floor finish as per the manufacturer’s instructions. SoundMats also act as a luxury carpet underlay for carpet finishes. A stabilising overlay board may be required for hard floor finishes such vinyl, laminate and engineered wood flooring.  

• Ceilings: Remove the existing ceiling to expose the timber joists. Install acoustic mineral wool. Fix ReductoClips to the bottom of the joists and snap in the ReductoClip Furring Channel into the clip. Install the first layer of acoustic plasterboard (leaving a 5mm gap around the perimeter). Attach FlexiSound (self-adhesive) to a second layer of acoustic plasterboard and fix in position to the ceiling. Fill the perimeter with acoustic sealant 

We provide full installation guides and videos and systems are designed for confident DIYers. Or you can hire a local tradesperson to do the installation for you. 

Airborne noise travels through the air (e.g. talking, music, TV). 

Impact noise is a physical impact and structure-borne noise (e.g. footsteps, moving furniture, or dropped objects). 

Each type requires a different soundproofing approach. Floors need impact isolation, while walls need mass and decoupling to block airborne noise. 

There are times when the distinction between the two becomes more blurred, for example, an impact noise can also result in an airborne sound (think of clapping your hands). It might be that you need a higher performing system to reduce both types of noise.  

Decibels (dB) are a unit used to measure sound intensity. Decibels are measured logarithmically (not a percentage). This is a way of counting or measuring something that increases rapidly, or exponentially. 

• A 10dB increase equals twice the perceived loudness 

• Soundproofing systems often reduce noise by up to 15–20dB, which feels like cutting the volume by more than half 

For example, if you were listening to your TV and the TV was set to volume 60, reducing 10dB of volume would be like turning the TV down from 60 to 30 (not 50 as people assume), so halving the volume. Reducing a further 10dB would turn the volume down from 30 to 15, a further 10dB reduction would turn the volume from 15 to 7.5 and so on halving every time. The size of the reduction gets smaller as the volume gets lower because the decibels at that lower volume are much smaller. 

Learn more: Decibels explained 

Yes, absolutely. When the right system is used in the right situation, soundproofing can significantly reduce unwanted noise. With proper tried and tested soundproofing systems, such as the ReductoClip system for walls and SoundMat’s for floors, many homeowners experience a noticeable, life-changing difference in comfort and peace within their homes. See what our customers have to say: Customer Reviews 

Yes. Many of our customers (over 80%) install the soundproofing systems themselves, using our step-by-step guides and video tutorials. We also offer expert technical support throughout the process.  

Installation videos 

If you’re not confident in your DIY skills, you can hire a local tradesperson to do the installation for you. 

Soundproofing can be confusing, and it can be quite daunting wondering which system to choose. Choosing the right system can depend on: 

• The type of noise: Is it airborne (talking, TV, music) or impact (footsteps, banging) or a combination of both? 

• The level of noise. E.g. Is it low levels of conversation, snoring, TV noise, or excessive loud music? 

• The surface: Can you hear the unwanted noise through the wall, floor, or ceiling? 

• The structure: A solid brick wall, internal stud wall, timber or concrete floor?  

It is always easier to treat the noise at the source. For example, if you can hear footsteps above, if possible, treat the floor. This helps to stop the impact vibration before it travels into the structure of the building. We realise this isn’t always feasible, in which case you would soundproof your ceiling.